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I know it’s ridiculous to wait, but I can’t wait to see what happens at the next table. To my left, a vested waiter at a table of four Frenchmen was wearing a medal around his neck, but he was delicately knocking down an undercooked duck. I can’t tear myself away from a waterfowl anatomy lesson to see – predictably – who the curious dog is.
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If Artie decides to jump, I tighten his leash and try not to worry about the medieval silver torture device attached to a nearby cart.
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I didn’t accidentally set myself up for lunch at a steakhouse. I ducks, from Rouen, the capital of the Normandy region of Northern France
– Duck cooked in its own blood, port and brandy sauce – this is delicious.
Maybe the dog wants the bird to carry its cries, I care less. I return to the bottle of Beaujolais and check my itinerary for the next day. We have a train to catch tomorrow, another later, and more later, so I have to plan, because thanks to a new initiative from Byway Travel, I’ve traveled the continent completely car-free. Dog company – something that until recently was a logistical nightmare.
Traveling Europe with a dog without your car isn’t as simple as hopping on the Eurostar. Although dogs are allowed on trains throughout Britain, Eurostar has a no dogs policy. Before the pandemic, dog owners wishing to travel to and from France had to travel by ferry or Channel Tunnel, or by car on the dog-friendly DFDS Newcastle-Amsterdam ferry or P&O’s Hull-Rotterdam route. traveller
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Not only are the latter options more expensive, but it can be difficult to get to and from the port while towing the dog. For dog owners without their own car, the continent has long felt more than the 21 miles needed to cross the Straits of Dover.
But Byway’s new dog-friendly, car-free, no-fly tours have opened up Europe to pedestrians, making exploring the continent by rail a real and fun possibility. Our journey began in Marylebone, London, where the Holmes Hotel was set up with a dog-friendly bed and the night before our early train departure. Then, after a quick, autumn stroll over the crisp foliage of Regent’s Park, we headed to St Pancras for our train to Ashford International. Brenda: This is where Byway Tours excels, using a relatively new service run by an American called Lee Pet Express.
After being stranded in France with her pet while flying from the US (on her way to London for a cyber security job at the London Stock Exchange), Brenda was inspired to set up her own pet van service for cars. Fewer passengers travel between the UK and France. In 2021, he finally replaced the computer servers with a specially adapted van with baskets on one side and single seats on the other so that passengers could always sit with their pets, and they now run daily between Ashford and Calais.
He picked up a bunch of us in his red bus (three dogs, a cat and four people) outside the station, took us through Lesthal pet reception as if we were on a school trip, and then dropped us off. We are at Calais-Frethen station for our onward journey to France. It sounds simple, but red tape abounds. Fortunately, it was Brenda’s job to worry about that – we just had to show our pets’ passports (or pet health certificates) and relax on the bus.
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That said, traveling to Europe with animals is a bit more complicated than it was in the breezy pre-Brexit days, so you’ve got some admin to do beforehand. All pets now require an animal health certificate or a valid EU-issued pet passport (Artie and I went to Ireland to get ours earlier this year). There are rules about what you can and can’t bring into the country – for example, meat-based dog food can be confiscated, so you’ll need a vegetarian or insect-based option like Hound or Grub Club – and your pet must be dewormed within five days of returning to the UK.
France also has rules about dogs on trains: officially, they either fit in a small carrier, or larger dogs must be muzzled and on a lead at all times. Of course, these are rarely enforced, and traveling the country on double-decker air-conditioned trains is a joy, whether you have a dog or not.
The trail’s dog-friendly tours may need some improvement. We originally booked into a hotel 40 minutes walk from the nearest green space – this was changed on request – and then found that our destination, Rouen, was not the most dog-friendly city Traveling with dogs on buses or trams. But it’s still a great way to get around the continent in a stress-free way. Choose your destination wisely and allow plenty of time to enjoy the land – 12 hours to get home felt a bit much for our three-night journey, so next time we’ll stay longer – and I suspect RT will give you that. We will see the duck order. . will buy
Lottie was a guest of Gross Homes Hotel and Byway Travel. A three-night trip to Rouen en route costs £892 per person, including all trains from London St Pancras, Le Petit Express service and three nights’ accommodation.
Dog Friendly Days Out
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To automatically log in, refresh the page or go to another page on the site. Refresh your browser to enter We have lots of options for dog-friendly days out at our castles, abbeys and historic parks. Scroll down to find historic places where you can take your pet on an adventure.
Please note: always keep your dog on a lead when you are in the field with livestock and please clean up after your pets. See specific site pages for more information.
Here are our top picks of historic places in England that we think you and your dog will love exploring.
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For nearly 700 years, the magnificent 13th-century Gothic Abbey has stood over the town of Whitby. Today you can experience a dog walk like no other and take in stunning views of the coast and city as you explore the Gothic ruins of the Abbey. After all, doesn’t every dog enjoy a trip to the beach?
Tintagel Castle is a favorite of our canine guests. Not only is the fort a scenic walk through the impressive ruins, but it also has a secluded beach for picnics and rapid paddles. A place steeped in history, mythology and stunning scenery, dogs and owners alike will love exploring this coastal Cornish gem.
Spending a day at Marble Hill is a real treat for the whole family, and your four-legged friend will love running around this beautiful landscape. This beautiful Palladian villa is set in 66 acres of stunning riverside parkland near Richmond, West London and is ideal for family days out in the fresh air. Enjoy a picnic or a visit to our newly renovated cafe, where dogs are welcome in their designated areas.
You and your canine companion will love spending the day at Audley End’s award-winning parks. Stroll through acres of landscaped parkland and enjoy stunning views of the Essex countryside, restored by Capability Brown. Your visit may include: the beautifully restored parterre; The beautiful Serpentine Lake and the dog friendly Cart Yard Cafe. Perfect for a relaxing day out in the sprawling grounds of England’s largest manor house.
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Kenilworth Castle is one of Britain’s greatest historic sites. This huge medieval castle survived a famous siege and was later transformed into a magnificent medieval castle. You and your dog can explore 900 years of history as you wander through the mighty Middle Ages. Climb the towers to admire the magnificent views; And follow in the footsteps of Queen Elizabeth I through the beautifully restored Elizabeth Gardens.
At English Heritage, you can explore historic sites with your furry friend at our over 150 dog-friendly sites.
That’s why we’re delighted to partner with Agria Pet Insurance, who share our passion for animal welfare and a pet-friendly environment. Agria will collaborate and partner with us on our dog friendly days
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